Smith's Country Cheese

Producer Spotlight: Smith's Country Cheese

At Food Connects, we are so fortunate to work with so many cheese producers throughout the region. We’re excited to feature Smith’s Country Cheese based out of Winchendon, MA. Passed from one family to the next, Smith’s Country Cheese is a shining example of how new and young farmers can learn from previous generations and how they can work together to conserve farmland for future generations. Plus, they make some darn good cheese! We interviewed Leah Catlin, one of the four owners, to find out more about the farm and its awesome story!

Can you share a little about the history of the farm? What inspired you and your family to start farming?

Smith’s Country Cheese has been a family-owned-and-operated, working dairy farm and creamery in the heart of North Central Massachusetts for over thirty years. Mr. David Smith and his family built the business and the brand from the barn up, growing the starting Holstein herd from 20 to 220 head, and working to become Massachusetts’ original farmstead producer of award-winning Gouda, Cheddar, and Havarti cheeses—all while becoming an industry leader in renewable energy, generating power through solar technology.

In 2013, as David and his wife began approaching retirement age, they began looking for a new owner who would continue Smith’s Country Cheese as a family-operated farm and creamery. It wasn’t until two years later when in the summer of 2015 Jake and Allie Catlin—a week away from welcoming their first daughter—learned that the Smith family was looking to sell their dairy and creamery. Although happy and successful with their jobs outside of Boston (in law enforcement and fitness respectively), they were looking for a more meaningful way of life for themselves and their new family. They made a series of exciting phone calls that put everything into motion: first, a brave phone call to Dave expressing interest in buying the farm without having any formal farming experience; and second, a phone call to Jake’s brother, Mike, and his wife Leah in Atlanta, Georgia, asking them and their two children to move back to Massachusetts and join them on this farm adventure.  

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…and the rest is history! The Smiths taught the Catlins how to make cheese and care for the cows on weekends for over a year before the sale was official. Nearly five years later, the Catlins are putting their own mark on the brand, adding new cheeses to their repertoire, and growing the business with innovative ideas.

What makes your farm unique? Could you tell us more about your sustainability efforts?

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We are proud to be true farmstead cheese producers. This means that all the milk we use to make our delicious, award-winning cheeses comes from our own herd of Holstein cows. Our cows are milked twice a day, every day and we make cheese about 3-4 days a week at our farm. On cheese-making days, we are using fresh milk from that morning’s milking—it doesn’t get any fresher than that!

We are also proud to continue Dave’s sustainability commitment to reduce our carbon footprint. Our grid-tied photovoltaic solar system offsets over 70% of our hot water and 30% of our electrical usage costs by using the energy of the sun. We make our own compost from cow manure, famously known as “Otter River Black Gold” to manage our farm waste in a green way. In 2020 our compost was certified for Organic producers.

What is one of your favorite cheeses?

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I asked everyone to rank their favorite cheeses and got four different answers! But, one of the cheeses we all agree is delicious is the Chive Cheddar—our creamy, mild cheddar serves as the backdrop for a bright and robust chive flavor. We love to snack on it, or add it to eggs, sandwiches, macaroni and cheese, and burgers! 

Why is selling locally and the local food movement important to you?

We love helping people in our community discover and appreciate locally made goods—it really is like finding treasure in your own backyard. Being part of the local food movement is important to us because it helps start the conversation within families about where their food comes from, the environment, and the economy. Shopping locally makes a big impact. I love the saying that when you support a small business an actual, real-life person does a happy dance because it’s 100% true! If you don’t believe us, follow us on Facebook and Instagram!

How does working with Food Connects help your business?

Working with Food Connects allows us to reach a new customer base and to be part of the important conversations they are having regarding the local food movement, agriculture, sustainability, and nutrition. We are confident that we are becoming a household name with the families and communities Food Connects and their programs serve.

Any events coming up or fun facts about your farm?

We will soon be adding some completely new products to our line: farm fresh milk, butter, and yogurt! Stay tuned, Food Connects!

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New Markets for New England Cheese

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New England cheese! Cheesemakers in Vermont and around New England are renowned worldwide and for good reason. Tucked away in remote corners and valleys, our little region’s specialty creameries put out some of the most innovative and complex cheeses you’ll find anywhere. No, New Englanders may not generally be the most adventurous in the face of a habanero chili, but when it comes to cheese, “milk’s leap toward immortality,” the inhabitants of this region appear to be positively daring. 

Unfortunately, 2020 squeezed New England cheesemakers. Restaurants and institutional food service—both major income sources for specialty cheesemakers—suffered huge losses in the face of pandemic fears, as did the classic cheese counter model (such as the cheese department at your local Co-op or Hannaford) with its focus on custom cut-and-wrap sales. Consumers shifted their purchasing toward pre-packaged cheeses and away from big-box grocery stores, towards smaller, local outlets and home delivery services. As a result, many cheesemakers lost their main markets. Those who could do so responded by retooling for pre-cut and pre-wrapped sales.

Networking for a Better Food System

In February 2020, a month before that unpleasant turn of events, Richard Berkfield and Alex McCullough from Food Connects had traveled to Upperville, Virginia. They joined nine other East Coast food hubs in a gathering that was the brainchild of Tom McDougall, owner of 4P Foods, a food hub based in Warrenton, VA, and serving the Washington, D.C. area. Food hub representatives from as far north as Maine and as far south as South Carolina converged to tackle one big question: How can we work together to serve our producers and customers better?

All of us dreamed, independently, of taking part in creating a resilient, decentralized food system, one based in sourcing from family-run farms and food businesses, in promoting food produced with social and ecological integrity, and in celebrating our regions’ foods in a spirit of collaboration and sharing.

Out of this convening, the Eastern Food Hub Collaborative (EFC) was born. Local Food Hub, 11-year-old Charlottesville, Virginia-based nonprofit with a long history running programming for food distribution and food access, is now organizing this collaboration. The EFC connects a still-growing roster of 14 East Coast food hubs, 600+ producers, and tens of millions of dollars of aggregate annual sales in a shared mission to scale a new paradigm of food for the East Coast.

As a group, we intuited that we’d always source first from our own local and regional producers within our respective hubs. And we could do that while also providing customers access to unique products from other places up and down the East Coast. And, conversely, at Food Connects, we could do so while introducing other regions to the special foods that only New England can offer.

What better way to show off New England than with cheese?

Connecting Cheese to Networks, and People to Cheese

Tom from 4P Foods declared on the first day of our convening in Virginia that 4P wanted to sell New England cheese. Richard and Alex drove home with a mission and a lot of work to do. That summer, with the guiding hand of Beth Lewand, former cheesemonger extraordinaire and Food Connects’ then-new Sales Associate, we launched our Specialty Cheese Catalog. At that time, the catalog acted as a testing ground to build supply relationships, learn about products, solve inbound logistics, and start figuring out new ways to supply customers with great cheese.

It turned out that the pre-cut cheeses that cheesemakers had emphasized since the COVID-19 crisis suddenly worked very well for much of Food Connects’ customer base: for farm stands, CSAs, small independent stores—and for home-delivery food hubs like 4P.  

In coordination with buyers Justin White and Devon Byrne from 4P, Food Connects shipped its first pallet of cheese to Virginia on May 12, 2021, as a pilot run. Would the cheese make it through the 500+ mile trip? Would customers buy it? Would they come back to buy more? 

We’re proud to announce a resounding “Yes” to all of the above! June 24–just last week!–marked our second and even larger cheese pallet shipment to 4P Foods. Stacked high with boxes from Grafton Village Cheese, Jasper Hill Farm, Smith’s Country Cheese, Narragansett Creamery, Parish Hill Creamery, Champlain Valley Creamery, Blue Ledge Farm, and Vermont Shepherd, this pallet represents Food Connects’ commitment to leveraging our unique location in the heart of New England to build a meaningful, brand new market outlet for our region’s cheesemakers. 

In all, since the Specialty Cheese Catalog’s launch in August, Food Connects has sold more than $136,000 of specialty cheese. We’ve delivered cheeses to retail outlets, restaurants, and institutional food service programs in Vermont, New Hampshire, and Massachusetts. We’ve sent countless boxes of cheese to other Food Hub partners around New England, including the Three Rivers Farmers Alliance, of Exeter, NH, and Farm Fresh Rhode Island, of Providence. Both of them source cheese through Food Connects to add to their home delivery programs. Even if in a small way, we’re proud to have contributed to supporting our cheesemakers through a uniquely difficult time.

We hope that this is just the beginning. We started with a small selection of producers to avoid overcomplicating logistics and over-diluting sales to our emerging market. As demand for cheese grows within our networks, we will continue expanding our product selection. We aim to build a strong, diverse catalog that brings together the best that our region offers, opening new doors for eaters up and down the coast looking for a gustatory experience they will never forget. And, of course, one that builds real, long-term markets for cheesemakers across New England who work to keep this ancient craft alive, thriving, and profitable now and into the future.

20 New Producers Added in 2020

2020 was a crazy year for many of us. As demand for regional food increased, Food Connects had the opportunity to expand our network of high-quality New England producers. Check out 20 that became part of the Food Connects family in 2020.

Atlantic Sea Farms - Saco, ME

Atlantic Sea Farms, created in 2009, is the first commercially viable seaweed farm in the United States. Their goal is to diversify how coastal waters are used, providing communities with a domestic and fresh alternative to imported seaweed products.

Featured Products: Fermented Seaweed Salad; Sea-Beet Kraut; Sea-Chi; Kelp Cubes; Ready Cut Kelp Slaw

Blue Ledge Farm - Salisbury, VT

Blue Ledge Farm is a first-generation, family-owned and -operated goat dairy and cheese-making farm just outside of Middlebury, VT. Owners Greg and Hannah now milk over 100 different goats and produce 11 different types of cheeses on their Animal Welfare Approved farm.

Featured Products: Camembrie; Crottina; Fresh Chevre; Lake’s Edge Mini; Marinated Chevre; Middlebury Blue; Richville; Riley’s 2x4

Champlain Valley Creamery - Middlebury, VT

Champlain Valley Creamery produces handcrafted, Certified Organic, award-winning cheeses. They make all their cheeses by hand, from the 100% grass-fed organic Jersey milk of Severy Farm in Cornwall, Vermont. They are handmade using traditional techniques and small-batch pasteurization in a net-zero solar-powered building.

Featured Products: Organic Champlain Triple; Organic Champlain Truffle Triple; Cream Cheese; Queso Fresco; Pyramid Scheme


Grateful Greens - Brattleboro, VT

Grateful Greens, located in downtown Brattleboro, VT, uses creative, low-impact, indoor farming technology that utilizes solar, rainwater, and eco-friendly systems. They grow nutrient-dense sunflower greens and strive to strengthen local food systems and relieve our dependence on resource-intensive farming or shipping produce from distant lands.

Featured Products: Sunflower Greens; Sunflower Greens, Maple Dijon Vinaigrette Grab and Go; Sunflower, w/Buttermilk Ranch Grab and Go; Sunflower, w/Mixed Dressings Grab and Go; Sunflower, w/Sesame Ginger Grab and Go

Ground Up - Hadley, MA

Ground Up is a family-owned operation that offers a range of whole and bolted (or sifted) flours proudly milled to order from Northeast farms. Ground Up’s goal is to look back in another ten years and see more acres of grain, more thriving farms, more fresh and nutritious flour—all-important signs of a more sustainable and resilient food system.

Featured Products: All Purpose Flour; Bolted Bread Flour; Malted Barley Flour; Organic Rye Berries; Pastry Flour; Pizza Dough Flour; Wheat Berries; Wheat Bran; Wheat Middlings; Whole Rye Flour 


Hall Apiaries: Plainfield, NH

Hall Apiaries is an apiary producing chemical- and treatment-free honey with hives in both Vermont and New Hampshire. Owner Troy Hall considers his queen breeding program to be the heart and backbone of his apiary. All potential breeders are hardy stock who are at least two years old and have persevered through two New England winters without any chemical treatments.

Featured Products: Raw Honey, chemical- and treatment-free

Heiwa Tofu: Rockport, ME

Founded in 2008, Heiwa Tofu is a small family business committed to creating pure and wholesome foods that they feel good sharing with their community. Their tofu is handcrafted in small batches using organic, non-GMO soybeans grown on Maine and New England farms.

Featured Products: Organic Tofu


Maine Grains - Skowhegan, ME

Maine Grains is a grain mill located in a repurposed jailhouse that serves bakers, brewers, chefs, and families freshly-milled, Organic, and heritage grains sourced from the Northeast. Their traditional stone milling process ensures nutrient-packed products full of flavor and perfect for natural fermentation, baking, and cooking.

Featured Products: Organic Cornmeal; Organic Farro; Organic Heritage Red Fife Wheat Flour; Organic Polenta; Organic Rolled Oats; Organic Rye Flour; Organic Sifted Wheat All-Purpose Flour; Organic Whole Wheat Flour

Maine Sea Salt - Marshfield, ME

Maine Sea Salt is a family-owned operation that sells sea salt in health and specialty food stores and restaurants throughout the U.S. They’ve been creating sea salt that is solar evaporated and non-processed, with no additives, for over 20 years.

Featured Products:  Atlantic Sea Salt, Coarse or Full Crystals


Maple Meadow Farm

Maple Meadow Farm, owned and operated by the Devoid family since 1946, produces fresh shell, cage-free eggs. By Vermont standards of egg production, Maple Meadow is a large farm. By national measures, they’re tiny. Staying small allows them to remain family-owned and operated, and to focus on the needs of their birds, their product and their customers.

Featured Products: Large Chicken Eggs


Mi Tierra Tortillas

Mi Tierra Tortillas is the first authentic tortilla bakery in New England that creates tortilla chips from 100% Organic non-GMO local New England corn, ground limestone, and water. Owners Jorge Sosa and Michael Doctor came together in 2014 to create a delicious product for the community, featuring corn grown in Western Massachusetts.

Featured Products: Fresh Corn Tortillas (Organic or Conventional); Fresh Corn Tortillas, Thin Chip Style (Organic or Conventional)

Old Friends Farm - Amherst, MA

Old Friends Farm is a Certified Organic farm that grows food and flowers with integrity. They are widely known for pioneering Northeast-grown ginger and turmeric and their award-winning specialty products made with these powerful roots. Old Friends Farm manages its business with integrity, balance, and harmony, prioritizing their employees in their business decisions, including paying their employees a living wage and creating schedules for employees to thrive at work and in their off-farm life.

Featured Products: Ginger; Turmeric; Ginger Honey; Turmeric Honey; Organic Ginger Syrup


Parish Hill Creamery - Putney, VT

Parish Hill Creamery is a family endeavor focused on preserving traditional cheesemaking culture, collaborative farming, and contributing to their community’s overall health. These use raw milk from Elm Lea Farm at The Putney School, and they process all their cheese by hand.

Featured Products: Cornerstone; Hermit; Humble; Idyll; Jack’s Blue; Kashar; Reverie; Suffolk Punch; VT Herdsman

Rhapsody Natural Foods - Cabot, VT

Rhapsody Natural Foods is a family-owned business that produces high-quality Organic and natural artisan foods and supports local and regional sustainable food systems in the process. They purchase their ingredients from farmers close to their facility and other small, family-owned farms.

Featured Products: Organic Miso; Non-GMO Natto; Organic Tempeh; Tempeh, Ready to Eat (BBQ and Teriyaki) 

Schoolhouse Farm - East Calais, VT

Schoolhouse Farm thoughtfully raises their livestock in a pasture-based system, providing the community with pastured eggs from hens raised on Organic feed. Their chickens live out on pasture in mobile hen houses. Moved daily, they eat a wide variety of grasses and legumes and forage for insects in the soil.

Featured Products: Pastured Eggs

Smith’s Country Cheese - Winchendon, MA

Smith’s Country Cheese is a family-owned and operated working dairy farm and creamery. Their 200 Holstein cows live a happy life on 43 rural acres in Winchendon, MA, to produce their award-winning farmstead Gouda, cheddar, and Havarti cheeses. They use traditional recipes and fresh, raw milk from their farm to make delicious, artisanal cheeses.

Featured Products: Baby Swiss; Cheddar Cheese Sticks; Cheddar; Farmers’ Cheese; Gouda Spread; Gouda; Havarti

Starbird Fish

Captain Tony and his crew at Starbird Fish trek to Alaska every season to harvest wild salmon and white fish from “the most sustainable fishery in the world” using modern, low-impact techniques. They transport their fresh catches from the boat directly to an on-shore processor, where the fish is frozen and then shipped to Burlington, Vermont. Starbird produces all its smoked fish in Burlington, VT.

Featured Products: Alaskan Coho Salmon; Alaskan King Salmon; Alaskan Rockfish; Alaskan Sockeye Salmon; Smoke Alaskan Coho, Smoked Alaskan Sockeye

Sunnyfield Farm - Wilmington, VT

Sunnyfield Farm is a family-owned and operated farm located in Western, VT. From chickens to goats, their love and care for their animals produce high-quality products. And to top it off, they run a sugar-house, Sprague & Son Sugar House, making delicious Vermont-made maple syrup, candies, and more!

Featured Products: Pasture Raised Chicken Eggs


Vermont Cranberry Company - Fletcher, VT

Vermont Cranberry Company is Vermont's first and only commercial cranberry grower. They grow cranberries for wholesale buyers, and their products are available at markets, coops, and farm stores throughout the state.

Featured Products: Frozen Cranberries


Vermont Shepherd - Westminster West, VT

Vermont Shepherd is a 250-acre farm with 300-700 sheep (depending on the time of year), 2 Border Collies (who herd the sheep), and 8 Maremma (who protect the sheep from predators), and shepherds of all ages. At the farm’s northern edge is a cave, home to over 20,000 lbs a year of our artisanal farmhouse cheeses. This human-made cave is over 4 feet underground and is naturally damp and cool, the perfect conditions for cheese ripening!

Featured Products: 2-Year Aged Invierno; Fromage Blanc; Invierno; Smoked Invierno; Verano